Horses for Arrows

Another bike ride, more surprises.

After a return trip to Ochang-proper, or the old Ochang that looks a bit worn and neglected compared to the modern and developed ‘new’ Ochang, I stumbled upon a small horse riding operation that Kirsty and magically found on a similar bike ride a couple of months prior. (We were somewhat lost. Well, maybe not lost but on an unplanned route which was kind of the plan anyway so never mind). I had wanted to get back to this stable to score some riding time for her birthday. (Nope. I have no idea why I typed birthday. Its to finish the last of her Christmas presents. Yeah Christmas in March!) All I wanted was to inquire about prices, pay, and set up a time to ride for Kirsty and possibly myself. I was at least successful in setting up, nothing.

I got the prices and I think a good deal but I asked if I could pay and get a receipt to show Kirsty that I was for real but the very friendly middle aged male assistant helping me was not interested. After some debate with two teenage females, possibly his daughters he said, “Ehhh pay or next time, no problem.” I had my wallet out and looking for the cash when another question came about which led to us going outside for whatever reason and I never ended up paying which I think was the wordless gesture for, “Why make things difficult? Just pay when you return, ass.”

I said outside because at the time of solicitation of all the riding products offered we were sitting on the heated floor of what presumably was someone’s office that housed a monitor for their security camera, computer, table for dining, one chair, and a desk. (Security from what? This place is in the middle of nowhere. Most Koreans don’t know where Ochang is and this place is even outside of Metro Ochang and in the country). I believe the whole purpose was to make use of his electronic dictionary that was brought out but never used so being in this small office/security room was pointless though I very much appreciated the under-floor heating on my bum.

I also appreciated the strikingly beautiful woman, somewhere in her 30s, who was also standing in the office while me and the assistant hashed out my request sitting on the floor. She didn’t speak one word of English during the duration. Naturally, I presumed that she was the assistance’s wife. This was not true as I pointed to her as I left and said, “Wife?” He replied, “No, eh visitor.” So then, why was this random visitor in the office in the first place?
After we got my unreserved and unpaid one hour horse riding finalized the friendly assistant showed me the archery practice range that was a whole 5 feet wide complete with one target and proceeded with an impromptu archery lesson showing me the difference between the Korean form and the American. I went one for two in hitting the target from point blank range, thanked the man and left.

Recap

Objectives:
Find horse riding place
Reserve a ride and pay
Time - 5 minutes max

Result:
Find horse riding place. Check!
No reserved ride, unpaid. No check.
Archery lesson. Check!
Time – 30 minutes. No check

Sorry Teacher, I've Got To Take This

Many a time I have been interrupted by students who I find texting on their cell phones to their parents or friends and it doesn't matter the age in Korea. Kindergarten on up. True story. Some bug eyed youth are so accustomed to answering and sending texts, or phone calls, I am sometimes not even asked if the contacted student can take the call, they just do it. Unreal. So it is for the teacher in this age.

This is especially true for teenage students who, as reported by the Korean Times, send over 9,000 texts a year- 25 a day.  Just last night as I left the classroom to use the copier, students were quick to whip out their phones and unconsciously return texts or play games on their phone if they weren't talking with a fellow classmate.  A fascinating article from the Korean Times on the prevalence of cell phone use among youth as compared to Japan, Mexico, India, and China is posted below. Taking away though is no mention of the name of the study that compared the 5 countries. Nonetheless some highlights;

"Mobile phones have become arguably the most important electronic device for young people in South Korea, with nearly 90 percent of children owning a handset by the time they reach the age of 12, a report said."

Something very telling about Korea - "When picking handsets, Korean teenagers considered design and capability first, while Chinese users were concerned most about voice quality. Indian teenagers were moved most by battery power, while Japanese users seemed rather indifferent about the brands of handset makers and wireless operators, the report said."

http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/biz/2009/02/123_39319.html

I Don't Get... Open Doors and Windows in Winter

My father prided himself on how long he could hold out before the family bitched enough to fold to turning on the heat in the winter. Korea takes this pride to a whole new level.

Yesterday was a very pleasant winter day, for February, that was disguised as a normal spring day. Temperatures were somewhere around the mid 40s. The sun was shining and morale

 was high thanks to the winter heat wave, relief. Upon walking into my school at 1:00 PM I find the heating is on full blast. Which it really didn't need be but was. Its not the fact that the heat blasting on this day perplexed me as I entered but more so that it wasn't on days in November when the temp was 6.

Turns out that Korea simply does not turn on the heat until December.

Students and teachers during that time wore coats and scarves while they were at school. Some classrooms were lucky enough to have a small portable heater, but not all. For two months now there is one student I have yet to see without his long black coat and neck warmer.

OK, I get the whole, 'Lets be thrifty' mantra. Everyone survived, we saved a buck, and the environment won out. I can roll with it, I understand. Until, that is, when December comes round and its open season for the heating units. During dark and harsh winter days with the temperatures in the Baltics outside, and the heat finally on, one can find windows open not by just a crack to let in fresh air, but by full extension and double doors pried wide like a church welcoming parishioners on Sunday.

I don't get it.

Too, hallways in the buildings that separate the businesses are not heated, as well as the entrances, stairwells, and bathrooms. Yes, bathrooms. As such, nature waits for me until I get home.

Turns out that traveling and living abroad not only supplies you with new experiences and stories but also new pet peeves.

I Don't Get... Eating at Outside Temperature

Quite commonly during these harshest of winter days in Korea you can find a student on a snack break eating ice cream.  Six degrees Fahrenheit?  Time for ice cream!  Though its just not students, its adults as well.  You may not to be able to feel your hands but hey, why not freeze your mouth too.  However, I prefer students to eat ice cream rather than dried octopus.  Wow.  Remember that guy on the team that sweated the most and never washed his practice uniform.  Its like that.

The same goes for eating hot things during hot times.  Take Belize.  People here drink their tea hot, thanks to colonization, and put some hot sauce, Marie Sharps or otherwise, on everything.  Even when its 1,000,000 degrees.  Though with this custom I find that the tea is more for relaxation, a cultural mainstay, than for temperature balancing.  Not much A/C anywhere and you are sweating anyway so why not feel relaxed?  Also,  it is said in regards to the hot sauce, that if you make the food hot and spicy and raise the temperature in your mouth then the temperature outside your mouth is more bearable.  

As Anderson Cooper says, "You just have to see it for yourself."  Or taste it.

I Don't Get... Segment Introduction

I don't want to sound like the loud, small minded "Eddy Expat," one frequently encounters when living or traveling abroad.  You know, that guy who denounces the other culture while they are in said culture with natives around talking loudly with other foreigners- enough for the entire bus to hear them.  If you want to experience one hop on any bus heading for San Ignacio or Punta Gorda, in Belize, during the tourist season.  However, there are simply too many instances, comical or otherwise, where I'm utterly confused in a cultural situation and though they are probably not that unique to foreigners, past or current, in the same situation, its unique to me and others who have yet to experience wherever I am.  So, I will write about them in this segment called, I Don't Get... 

Therefore I open myself up to people that are foreign to me to laugh at the way I do things and would love to hear it.   If you give it, you gotta take it.  

The Singing OK Mart Dog!

On my way back from a nice walk through the trails of Ochang on a lazy New Year's Day I stopped in for some gum at the friendly OK Mart.  I didn't know buying gum got me a free ticket to the concert performed by the store manager, Thomas, and his talented dog, Doodi.  

When Crap is Really Crab

The P's sound like B's. M's like B's. B' like V's.  What? So logic would say the M's sound like P's or V's but this is not a logical world.  And this is what life is like for a native English speaker learning Korean or teaching English in Korea; and reverse for a Korean.  Sound similarities of Hangul characters when compared to the Roman language get confusing to say the least not to mention the differences in symbols.  

But it gets more complicated- P's also sound like F's.  Once, Kirsty, my girlfriend and co-worker, asked a student to make a copy of a worksheet.  What she got was a proud student and a well-intended coffee at 7:30 PM.

Additionally, take the word crab. B's sound very much like P's (no, B's don't sound life F's, I know, I know) therefore many a menu can leave you smirking. "Yeah, I would like a bean shoots and crap sandwich please. Oh, and a Coke."

The similarities in sound do not end there. G's also sound like K's.  This is important to know to insure you are catching the right bus, especially if you are traveling to the historic town of Kyong-ju.  One sign says Kyong-ju in one city and Gyong-ju in the next. Forget about asking for bus tickets at the will call.  Sometimes you just have to hope for the best. 

Lastly, R's sound like L's and versa vice and so on and so on.  So yes, at times I am referred to as Mr. Jelly.

25 Tips To Become an English Teacher in Korea

Foreword

This document was written by a Scot and an American who started teaching English at a hagwon (or hakwon) in Korea in September 2008. We did our best in coming up with an accurate account of the basics on becoming a teacher in Korea. Other’s experiences may vary.

For UK and US citizens and for general information for people of other countries the UK and US embassies haves similar guides that you should also refer to and check for the most up to date information.

Any comments on improving this document are very welcome!  Too we do not take responsibility for any problems or whatever disclaimers say.

UK citizens please see http://ukinkorea.fco.gov.uk/en/help-for-british-nationals/living-in-korea/general-advice/teaching-english-in-korea

US citizens please see http://seoul.usembassy.gov/t_overview.html

1. Time line
a. When planning to come to Korea teaching English, allow your self a good 5- 6 months.  This includes finding the school, receiving a firm offer of employment, preferably in writing (See Contract). The paperwork to get the visa issuance number is very time consuming. Do not be fooled into thinking you can do it quicker than this, perhaps you can, but your entry may not be legal, and you are more likely to be deported.
b. In terms of vaccinations, this will also take about 1 - 2 months to get everything that you need. It is always best to speak to your local doctor, and also to consult the WHO website and check for country information to see what you will need (Also see Medical Insurance and Shots)
i. http://www.who.int/en/

2. Application
a. This is a very short process and it may ask for a picture to be uploaded to your application
b. Experience required: Native English speaker
i. University degree, speak English, breathing

3. Contract
a. Don’t be surprised if you need to re-write your contract. Our contracts were illegible when we first received them and as they are a legally binding document once you arrive in Country, you want to be happy with it. However, according to the US Embassy’s website only the Korean version is legally binding and even that can be debatable. (Please see http://seoul.usembassy.gov/t_overview.html)
b. Kirsty asked our recruiter, a Korean national, if she had any problems with her making some suggestions. She had no problem and Kirsty carefully re-wrote the contract. It is now legible and refers to the employer and the employee in the correct places. Read your contract very carefully and ensure that your overtime rate is stipulated in it. In an ideal world your Hagwon will pay you per class you teach, or stipulate a wage of a certain amount of won per month based on the number of classes you teach. Most teachers do not teach for an hour, and so therefore if you only teach for 45 minutes, you will only be paid for 45 minutes. This gets difficult when you are working out what your salary should be at the end of the month. Being paid per class is much simpler, especially if you regularly do overtime
c. It is advisable to have a copy of your contract with you when you travel for immigration purposes, and for nothing other than peace of mind

4. Medical Insurance and Shots
a. Most Hagwons provide Medical Insurance for their Native English teacher employee, and the school will normally pay 50% of this. Your Doctor’s office will probably be next door to the school, or certainly within walking distance. However it is our experience that after two months living and working here we can only now expect to get coverage by next week. It is advisable to have your own medical insurance that you can re up monthly if possible. Too, contact your respective Embassy on medical insurance in Korea.
b. In terms of what shots you need to come to Korea, you should be up to date with the usual travel vaccinations; Hep A, Hep B (if you are working with children this is advisable) Typhoid, Typhus, Japanese B encephalitis, Tetanus, MMR, BCG (Tuberculosis) Be aware that some of these vaccinations are given in three parts, and it is strongly advisable to complete the course at least 2 weeks prior to flying. Yellow fever is also useful to have, especially if you want to travel back through Asia, in which case, Rabies is also worth considering
c. Two things to be aware of in Korea, Malaria and Dengue Fever. Most of Korea is Malaria free, although there is an area of low risk by the border into North Korea. In terms of Dengue Fever, remember there is no cure or treatment for this – so bite protection is essential. You need bug spray, keep yourself covered and avoid being out doors at times of the day when mosquitoes are most active. Dengue can happen here, be warned. You won’t really need to take Malaria prophylaxis in Korea, but check with your doctor. If you are not taking anti-malarials whilst here and are travelling back through Asia, you should seek advice in country as to what prophylaxis you will need

5. Criminal Background Check (UK citizens)
a. A National Police background check requires at least a month to six weeks to complete. In the UK you can apply for this nationally by applying for a Subject Access request at your local police station. Following that, it must be signed and approved by a Solicitor or Notary Public; it then has to go to be Apostilled (See Apostille). This entire process takes about two months. In the UK, after your solicitor has signed it to say it is genuine; you have to send it to the Foreign and Commonwealth office to be apostilled. Information is available on the FCO webpage. Note that an interview with the Korean Consulate in London is not required, however, they have the right to ask you to attend an interview if they see a need, so be ready for that one.
i. http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/

6. Criminal Background Check (US Citizens)
a. Yes, another beuarcratic hoop! Takes about two weeks to a month. Depends on who you ask. Though you can request for a date to be processed and mailed by. This is to be turned in with your diploma. You will have to have a check performed, two cards and up to 10 fingers. Then, once you get your paper notification of your status you have to have it appostilled. (See Apostille below.) Surprisingly this can be done at the American consulate whilst in Belize, to show that it is possible to do it out of country. Surely it is uniform in other American consulates around the world. Then once your Korean counterparts send your documents to the Koran immigration you are given a visa issuance number which is needed to schedule an ‘interview’ with the Korean consulate in your home country

7. Apostille
a. What in the hell is an apostille?! It’s a stamp that officiates official documents. It doesn’t even make sense explaining it. After you have obtained your criminal background check you are to get a form stamped which someone in your state police department maybe able to do or someone called a Notary Public. They may be found at a post office.  If this doesn't work try (US residents you will probably have to go through the FBI to obtain a criminal background check. Though your State Police department draws from a central repository our recruiter didn’t understand and I had to get an FBI check.) However, Korea requires that you get an apostille

8. Visa Issuance Number
a. passport picture
b. original diploma
c. criminal background check with apostille
d. Resume
e. Copy of passport
f. All are needed in order for you Korean counterparts to process your number for you which you present to the Korean consulate to set up an ‘interview’

9. Korean Consulate in the UK (for obtaining E-2 single entry visas)
a. The Consulate in the UK is pretty helpful. They can be found at the following website: http://www.koreanembassy.org.uk. Be aware that their contact email address does not seem to work. They can be easily reached on the phone however. They estimate that visas will take between three to five working days, my application was processed and my passport returned to me within three business days of it arriving in London. I would say that the service is efficient, but be aware that they can call you for an interview, so again, don’t book your flights until your passport has been returned to you.
b. Another useful thing that we discovered, although too late for it to do us any good, is that you must obtain your visa from the Consulate in the country in which you are resident. A British Citizen cannot obtain their visa from the Korean Embassy in the U.S, similarly a U.S Citizen cannot obtain their visa from the Korean Consulate in the U.K

c.  Once all is well and you are in Korea you will need to go to the hospital to complete your E-2 Visa alien registration.  Here they do blood and urine tests, eye exam, and a chest x-ray.  This must be done in the first 90 days

10. Korean Consulate in the US (for obtaining E-2 single entry visas)
a. US Consulate- Find the closest consulate via web and ask these question, at least: Do I need to make an in person interview? When are you open - days and hours? Be sure to ask about holidays to make sure they are open. How long will the visa process take after the interview? Do I have to pick up the visa in person or will you mail it to me? What do I need to bring? Whatever you need to bring make copies, if possible.
b. It is highly advisable to NOT book your flights until you have your visa in your hand. Long story short while I was in the consulate for my interview and final paper work two young lads who had booked their flights for Korea for the Saturday coming learned that the consulate would be closed the Friday before due to a holiday, which they were not told of, and could not get their paper work.
c. UK – For what is it worth Americans are not allowed to get you’re their visa for Korea in London. Brits maybe able to do their visa by mail given the proper papers are sent to the consulate in London
d. Interview for Visa
i. The interview for the visa was a joke. I was maybe asked three questions. With all the technology available today people still have to travel hundreds of miles for a couple pointless questions and a little sticker, ridiculous
ii. The consulate in Chicago was only doing interviews on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at the time. Be sure to contact them prior to going to Chicago. They are located in the massive NBC Tower building
iii. www.chicagoconsulate.org
455 N Cityfront Plaza Dr #2700
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 822-0443

e.  Once all is well and you  are in Korea you will have to finalize your E-2 Visa for alien registration.  This is done at a hospital where you will have a chest x-ray, blood taken, urine sample taken, along with an eye check and blood pressure check.  This must be done in the first 90 days

11. Placement
a. Your placement will vary and like the Peace Corps we were not given much choice as to where we were placed. Your recruiter most likely has certain hagwons or schools they recruit for on a daily basis

12. Flights
a. You will generally be expected to find and book your own flight. This varies for those who choose to teach at public schools
b. We used www.kayak.com to book our flights. Kirsty was advised, wisely, by the Korean Consulate in London, not to book flights until her passport had been returned. This meant that her visa was approved and with her passport in her hand she was able to travel
c. We have heard so many horror stories of people booking flights and then not getting their visa in time and having to postpone flights. We booked our flights one night and flew out two days later, and everything was fine
d. Kayak.com seems to be the most competitive for flights. We managed to find flights, one way with Emirates for US$900. They provided great service and for a long haul flight, it was surprisingly comfortable. It looks like the flights are cheaper in September through April or so, by US$100-200

13. Arrival
a. You may be expected to take a bus from the Incheon airport to the closest bus station to your residence. Our director and her family picked us up from there. Depending on your recruitment agency you may be shuttled to a hotel for training with other teachers. We arrived on a Sunday night and were asked to start the following day. Luckily we don’t teach until the afternoon but the first week was very tiring

14. Training
a. We had none. We played games with the students the first couple of days while things were ‘figured out’. Supposedly the previous teachers didn’t leave a documented account as to where they were in the books in their classes or anything else. We had to ask the students were they were in the book. Though some recruiting agencies have a one week training

15. Housing
a. This is usually provided. In our case we even had a bed, sheets, two closets, two small refrigerators (dorm size), two tables, four chairs, a TV, TV stand, two forks, two spoons, two coffee mugs, two plates, an A/C an electric kettle and a toaster included. However, we are not sure if these were left by the previous teachers or if the school provided.
b. Bills – We pay for Internet which very reliable and fast, gas and electricity. It looks like the bills total will not exceed $100
c. Bathroom/Shower - The shower is only a hose connected in the sink area with shower head and there are no shower curtains. Therefore the shower and bathroom are one. However this is not as heinous as you might imagine and can easily be adapted to
d. See Jerry’s blog titled Korean Apartment Video 5, 302 for a look at a one bedroom apartment. While the apartment works after visiting some friends with two bedrooms and a kitchen/dining/living room area I would try for a place similar when being recruited (if you plan on living with someone)

16. Cohabiting
a. Make sure that you spend some time apart or you will kill each other. Make friends quickly, at work and out of work. Though, this may prove to be a little more difficult than you might expect, you will meet people. Chances are if you are sharing an apartment you will be working in the same school also. Hobbies are easy to take up in Korea and many people will want you to tutor them in English, but be warned this is illegal
b. (See Housing d)

17. Teaching
a. We work in a hagwon, an after school private school, from 1:30 PM till 8:00 PM with a half hour break for dinner. However, after just two weeks we were asked to tutor for an hour one on one with a student. We are compensated $20 per session as it is counted as ‘overtime’. We work 33 regular hours a week and anywhere from 2 – 5 hours ‘overtime’
b. The most frustrating thing for us so far is consistently getting new students in classes and having an erratic schedule where we will be teaching a class one week and then not teaching them for 2 weeks and then on again and being told this minutes before or after
c. Parents are very appreciative of teachers and there is always someone dropping off snacks for the staff
d. Students are very disciplined, for the most part, and exerting discipline works. Be mindful though that some of these kids are in school for at 10 hours a day so make English as fun as possible for them and yourself

18. Pay
a. Depends if you are teaching in a hagwon or public school. Some schools start pay at W 2,000,000 a month and increase pay per month if you have a background in education, certificates or diploma. There are also online courses for certification that you may take to get an increase in pay per month. We, with no certificates or online instruction, started at W 2,200,000. Having international experience prior gave us a boost
b. The Korean Won is experiencing a decline against the dollar. As of October we are making about $400 USD less a month than previously projected thanks to the recent economic crisis and other factors. You can monitor the fluxing currency at www.XE.com

c. Severance - Teachers working for 12 months are entitled to severance pay.  Please be aware that some directors for hagwons have been known to fire teachers on their 11th month to avoid paying the severance.  However we have already spoken to our director about this and have a basic understanding that we will get the severance  

d.  Pension - US residents are entitled to a pension plan but I am not sure of the monthly payments of the reimbursement at this time

19. Vacation
a. As hagwon teachers we get 10 days year on top of the 15 national holidays. Public school teachers get more holidays as they have most of January and February off from the school as well as time in the summer but there is so called ‘English camp’ thatthey can teach

20. Training (see Teaching)

21. Phones
a. We were given ours for free and pay for credit as we go along. Though a friend of ours had to wait a couple of weeks before she got hers. Too we suggest you get Skype. The video camera feature is really great and the rates are cheap. For example it is only 2 cents a minute to call a phone in the US from Korea and free if calling another Skype user through Skype

22. Banking
a. We are paid by direct deposit. We have to use ‘bank books’ and go into the bank to do any transactions for the first 3 months before we get a debit card. We also have to show our passports every time we make a transaction
b. You should be able to wire your Korean money to your US accounts. Jerry’s US bank charges $15 per international wire. Check with your Korean bank if they charge per wire

23. What to Bring
a. Korea has four seasons like Europe and America. The guide books say that September is still T-shirt weather, but it really is. In 2008, it only started to get cooler at the end of September. T-shirts, skirts and loose clothes are a good idea. However, Korean winters are rumoured to be cold, with a lot of snow. Koreans have confirmed this is true. This means, if you are here for the year, you need to pack accordingly. But don’t despair ladies, cheap clothing can easily be found in Korea. Seoul has a Zara!!! (Guys, who cares, right?) And there are plenty of cheap stores where you can pick up clothing for under US$40 no problem. Of course there are plenty of expensive stores too, something for every taste and budget. Gents, espesically tall ones, you will be able to find clothes that fit you in any season. There are tall people in Korea, as to oppose popular belief. For big boned people clothing may be hard to come by as most Koreans are slim
b. We have noticed so far, that few, if any places sell deodorant, and we had been warned about this. So for the sake of an easy life, you may want to bring a supply with you, and then request shipments from home. Also on this note, it is difficult to find ordinary black teabags. Brown rice green tea is extremely popular, more so than regular green tea, which is more expensive. Other than that there is a great variety
c. For the ladies, we have not seen tampons in any of the stores yet, so this may pose a problem, and may necessitate some care packages – hey at least they are light and won’t cost much to post.
d. Korea is a relatively respectful country, which means tops that showing cleavage is a huge no no. But it’s perfectly acceptable to show leg, and lots of it. Short skirts are completely fine! Seriously though, we have seen a few foreigners showing cleavage in Seoul and the really do get looked at, and you will not see a Korean woman like this. Plus it looks really trashy! Oh and Koreans think women who dress like that, showing cleavage, are Russian prostitutes! So if you are a teacher and to gain some respect with your students, keep 'em covered! You too, men, no cleavage. Other than that, you can get everything you want here.

24. English Reading Material
a. English books seem to be found easily in Seoul at stores like Bandi and Luni, and Kyobo which is the biggest book store we have ever seen though the English books are a bit more expensive, so you may want to find other teachers to get a book swap going. Same goes for English magazines – very expensive.

25.  Traveling outside of Korea

a.  You will need to make sure to get a E-2 multiple entry visa from the Immigration office on your passport for reentry to Korea.  Your original E-2 visa single entry is only for your intial entrance.  We are told the E-2 multiple entry visa about $50.