Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

When Crap is Really Crab

The P's sound like B's. M's like B's. B' like V's.  What? So logic would say the M's sound like P's or V's but this is not a logical world.  And this is what life is like for a native English speaker learning Korean or teaching English in Korea; and reverse for a Korean.  Sound similarities of Hangul characters when compared to the Roman language get confusing to say the least not to mention the differences in symbols.  

But it gets more complicated- P's also sound like F's.  Once, Kirsty, my girlfriend and co-worker, asked a student to make a copy of a worksheet.  What she got was a proud student and a well-intended coffee at 7:30 PM.

Additionally, take the word crab. B's sound very much like P's (no, B's don't sound life F's, I know, I know) therefore many a menu can leave you smirking. "Yeah, I would like a bean shoots and crap sandwich please. Oh, and a Coke."

The similarities in sound do not end there. G's also sound like K's.  This is important to know to insure you are catching the right bus, especially if you are traveling to the historic town of Kyong-ju.  One sign says Kyong-ju in one city and Gyong-ju in the next. Forget about asking for bus tickets at the will call.  Sometimes you just have to hope for the best. 

Lastly, R's sound like L's and versa vice and so on and so on.  So yes, at times I am referred to as Mr. Jelly.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Korea's Mixed Thoughts on Historic Election, Voting Abroad


First and foremost this blog is about adventures abroad and not a soap box for 
my political views, tempting as it is. Though, to tell a truer story I will at least admit to which presidential candidate I supported.

The scale of the world reaction to this epic election is unmeasurable. I knew prior that the world keeps attune to US affairs but nothing like this. In Korea every debate, including the VP, was on the front pages. The day after the elections- a 16 page spread in one paper and I am sure the others were similar. I kept with CNN most of the November 5th morning via Internet (there is a 12 hour time difference between Korea and the East Coast) and saw the results come in. It was when I was at the bank when I saw that Obama had been projected the winner on the large flat screen as KBS was showing CNN's video and graphics thankfully. Hangul was in huge characters overlapping the footage. Wow. I looked around and everything was business as usual. No one seemed to take notice. Maybe they all knew already or commented but I would have no way to know. The closest feeling I can recall to that moment was when I was a kid. My sisters and I were playing downstairs and I wanted to scare them. I hid in the football shaped toy box and waited and waited. No one to talk to and all this anticipated energy! No release. Luckily I have Skype and a girlfriend and good friends here willing to listen.

Too, I am proud that I had the opportunity to participate in the elections and quite happy that I did not see one political TV ad unless it was part of a topic from a news podcast! I voted by email as a ballot was scanned and emailed to me. I shaded the ovals of the candidates of me choice scanned and emailed back. If I didn't have a scanner I could have just replied to the email with the names of the candidates I wanted to vote for.  Maybe Indiana being this hi-tech is a bigger story than it going blue.   I was also able to volunteer for the Obama campaign by making phone calls using Skype.  All I had to do was sign up, pick the volunteering program of my choice and instantly I was directed to a list of 50 voters and phone numbers.  I believe the McCain campaign had something similar as well.  

Korea's reaction is mixed. My director said it best in her broken English, "America ehh very happy. Korea, so-so." This is due to fears of lessening trade or even going as far predicting protectionism as Obama sighted and singled out South Korea in the last debate that the automobile trade is uneven as Korea exports some 750,000 cars to America's 5,000 imported. I can't recall seeing one American made vehicle in the two months I have been here.  Then again some say it doesn't matter how cheap or great quality Koreans on a whole are too nationalistic to buy anything else.  The "Made in Korea" tag is everywhere.  But according to The Korea Times those in export, technology and alternative energy, are optimistic for new or expanded American projects that could come via an Obama presidency. Also, according to a Korean co-worker, "Korea usually favors candidates who are older as they see them as wiser."  I wonder if this was her way of "keeping harmony" by not fully disclosing how she feels which is said to be common here.  Though according to a couple of Korean friends and two students who can form a clear sentence, Heather and Victor, wisdom accompanying age was not a factor.

One student, and child protege, whose English name is Victor bluntly said, "Sarah Palin is stupid." "Why?" Kirsty, my girlfriend, asked. "Anyone spending $150,000 on clothes for her and her family can't be that smart." Victor also watches CNN with his parents and again came straight forward with, "I think The Situation Room is boring."

Heather, 12, said she too supports Obama. When asked why she said, "McCain left his wife and is now with a new wife. Obama is smart, younger and is very educated; Harvard, Lawyer, Columbia."

As children at this age usually reflect what their parents think I find it strikingly intriguing with what these students are saying. Korea is surely a country in transition on many levels. Lastly, according to the Economist's world voting online it shows Obama with a 90% support rating compared to 10% for McCain in Korea and an 82% to 18% worldwide. Though one can't draw final conclusions on the superficial votes of these "If the world could vote" programs. Who was it voting? Expats? People using more than one email address? etc.

Throughout my travels I never found one solid McCain supporter and I was sure to reassure whoever I was speaking with that it was OK to have a separate opinion and we could still be friends and that I would still buy their medicine. Cannucks, Irish, Scottish, Koreans; all where either pro Obama, or disinterested. No one said they were going to miss Bush.

As I was making my way to Scotland to visit my girlfriend's homeland I made a connecting flight in Ireland. As I was putting my bags through the X-ray machines my Obama button fell off my carry-on and one of the security officers picked it up laughing and went into some Irish chatter. I stood there just kind of staring, waiting for a translation. "Ha, another Obama button." So I asked what their thoughts were. With the long line the answer was short, "I think America needs him. Though he's going to get shot." A sweet Scottish family had similar sentiments. I am optimistically hopeful that I will never have to read that headline.

No doubt I wish I was in America to be a part of these truly historic times though several years from now people will ask, "Where were you on that Nov. 4th day in America?" I will begin by responding, "Well, in those days I did a bit of traveling and where I was it was already Nov. 5th..."

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

25 Tips To Become an English Teacher in Korea

Foreword

This document was written by a Scot and an American who started teaching English at a hagwon (or hakwon) in Korea in September 2008. We did our best in coming up with an accurate account of the basics on becoming a teacher in Korea. Other’s experiences may vary.

For UK and US citizens and for general information for people of other countries the UK and US embassies haves similar guides that you should also refer to and check for the most up to date information.

Any comments on improving this document are very welcome!  Too we do not take responsibility for any problems or whatever disclaimers say.

UK citizens please see http://ukinkorea.fco.gov.uk/en/help-for-british-nationals/living-in-korea/general-advice/teaching-english-in-korea

US citizens please see http://seoul.usembassy.gov/t_overview.html

1. Time line
a. When planning to come to Korea teaching English, allow your self a good 5- 6 months.  This includes finding the school, receiving a firm offer of employment, preferably in writing (See Contract). The paperwork to get the visa issuance number is very time consuming. Do not be fooled into thinking you can do it quicker than this, perhaps you can, but your entry may not be legal, and you are more likely to be deported.
b. In terms of vaccinations, this will also take about 1 - 2 months to get everything that you need. It is always best to speak to your local doctor, and also to consult the WHO website and check for country information to see what you will need (Also see Medical Insurance and Shots)
i. http://www.who.int/en/

2. Application
a. This is a very short process and it may ask for a picture to be uploaded to your application
b. Experience required: Native English speaker
i. University degree, speak English, breathing

3. Contract
a. Don’t be surprised if you need to re-write your contract. Our contracts were illegible when we first received them and as they are a legally binding document once you arrive in Country, you want to be happy with it. However, according to the US Embassy’s website only the Korean version is legally binding and even that can be debatable. (Please see http://seoul.usembassy.gov/t_overview.html)
b. Kirsty asked our recruiter, a Korean national, if she had any problems with her making some suggestions. She had no problem and Kirsty carefully re-wrote the contract. It is now legible and refers to the employer and the employee in the correct places. Read your contract very carefully and ensure that your overtime rate is stipulated in it. In an ideal world your Hagwon will pay you per class you teach, or stipulate a wage of a certain amount of won per month based on the number of classes you teach. Most teachers do not teach for an hour, and so therefore if you only teach for 45 minutes, you will only be paid for 45 minutes. This gets difficult when you are working out what your salary should be at the end of the month. Being paid per class is much simpler, especially if you regularly do overtime
c. It is advisable to have a copy of your contract with you when you travel for immigration purposes, and for nothing other than peace of mind

4. Medical Insurance and Shots
a. Most Hagwons provide Medical Insurance for their Native English teacher employee, and the school will normally pay 50% of this. Your Doctor’s office will probably be next door to the school, or certainly within walking distance. However it is our experience that after two months living and working here we can only now expect to get coverage by next week. It is advisable to have your own medical insurance that you can re up monthly if possible. Too, contact your respective Embassy on medical insurance in Korea.
b. In terms of what shots you need to come to Korea, you should be up to date with the usual travel vaccinations; Hep A, Hep B (if you are working with children this is advisable) Typhoid, Typhus, Japanese B encephalitis, Tetanus, MMR, BCG (Tuberculosis) Be aware that some of these vaccinations are given in three parts, and it is strongly advisable to complete the course at least 2 weeks prior to flying. Yellow fever is also useful to have, especially if you want to travel back through Asia, in which case, Rabies is also worth considering
c. Two things to be aware of in Korea, Malaria and Dengue Fever. Most of Korea is Malaria free, although there is an area of low risk by the border into North Korea. In terms of Dengue Fever, remember there is no cure or treatment for this – so bite protection is essential. You need bug spray, keep yourself covered and avoid being out doors at times of the day when mosquitoes are most active. Dengue can happen here, be warned. You won’t really need to take Malaria prophylaxis in Korea, but check with your doctor. If you are not taking anti-malarials whilst here and are travelling back through Asia, you should seek advice in country as to what prophylaxis you will need

5. Criminal Background Check (UK citizens)
a. A National Police background check requires at least a month to six weeks to complete. In the UK you can apply for this nationally by applying for a Subject Access request at your local police station. Following that, it must be signed and approved by a Solicitor or Notary Public; it then has to go to be Apostilled (See Apostille). This entire process takes about two months. In the UK, after your solicitor has signed it to say it is genuine; you have to send it to the Foreign and Commonwealth office to be apostilled. Information is available on the FCO webpage. Note that an interview with the Korean Consulate in London is not required, however, they have the right to ask you to attend an interview if they see a need, so be ready for that one.
i. http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/

6. Criminal Background Check (US Citizens)
a. Yes, another beuarcratic hoop! Takes about two weeks to a month. Depends on who you ask. Though you can request for a date to be processed and mailed by. This is to be turned in with your diploma. You will have to have a check performed, two cards and up to 10 fingers. Then, once you get your paper notification of your status you have to have it appostilled. (See Apostille below.) Surprisingly this can be done at the American consulate whilst in Belize, to show that it is possible to do it out of country. Surely it is uniform in other American consulates around the world. Then once your Korean counterparts send your documents to the Koran immigration you are given a visa issuance number which is needed to schedule an ‘interview’ with the Korean consulate in your home country

7. Apostille
a. What in the hell is an apostille?! It’s a stamp that officiates official documents. It doesn’t even make sense explaining it. After you have obtained your criminal background check you are to get a form stamped which someone in your state police department maybe able to do or someone called a Notary Public. They may be found at a post office.  If this doesn't work try (US residents you will probably have to go through the FBI to obtain a criminal background check. Though your State Police department draws from a central repository our recruiter didn’t understand and I had to get an FBI check.) However, Korea requires that you get an apostille

8. Visa Issuance Number
a. passport picture
b. original diploma
c. criminal background check with apostille
d. Resume
e. Copy of passport
f. All are needed in order for you Korean counterparts to process your number for you which you present to the Korean consulate to set up an ‘interview’

9. Korean Consulate in the UK (for obtaining E-2 single entry visas)
a. The Consulate in the UK is pretty helpful. They can be found at the following website: http://www.koreanembassy.org.uk. Be aware that their contact email address does not seem to work. They can be easily reached on the phone however. They estimate that visas will take between three to five working days, my application was processed and my passport returned to me within three business days of it arriving in London. I would say that the service is efficient, but be aware that they can call you for an interview, so again, don’t book your flights until your passport has been returned to you.
b. Another useful thing that we discovered, although too late for it to do us any good, is that you must obtain your visa from the Consulate in the country in which you are resident. A British Citizen cannot obtain their visa from the Korean Embassy in the U.S, similarly a U.S Citizen cannot obtain their visa from the Korean Consulate in the U.K
c.  Once all is well and you are in Korea you will need to go to the hospital to complete your E-2 Visa alien registration.  Here they do blood and urine tests, eye exam, and a chest x-ray.  This must be done in the first 90 days

10. Korean Consulate in the US (for obtaining E-2 single entry visas)
a. US Consulate- Find the closest consulate via web and ask these question, at least: Do I need to make an in person interview? When are you open - days and hours? Be sure to ask about holidays to make sure they are open. How long will the visa process take after the interview? Do I have to pick up the visa in person or will you mail it to me? What do I need to bring? Whatever you need to bring make copies, if possible.
b. It is highly advisable to NOT book your flights until you have your visa in your hand. Long story short while I was in the consulate for my interview and final paper work two young lads who had booked their flights for Korea for the Saturday coming learned that the consulate would be closed the Friday before due to a holiday, which they were not told of, and could not get their paper work.
c. UK – For what is it worth Americans are not allowed to get you’re their visa for Korea in London. Brits maybe able to do their visa by mail given the proper papers are sent to the consulate in London
d. Interview for Visa
i. The interview for the visa was a joke. I was maybe asked three questions. With all the technology available today people still have to travel hundreds of miles for a couple pointless questions and a little sticker, ridiculous
ii. The consulate in Chicago was only doing interviews on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at the time. Be sure to contact them prior to going to Chicago. They are located in the massive NBC Tower building
iii. www.chicagoconsulate.org
455 N Cityfront Plaza Dr #2700
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 822-0443
e.  Once all is well and you  are in Korea you will have to finalize your E-2 Visa for alien registration.  This is done at a hospital where you will have a chest x-ray, blood taken, urine sample taken, along with an eye check and blood pressure check.  This must be done in the first 90 days

11. Placement
a. Your placement will vary and like the Peace Corps we were not given much choice as to where we were placed. Your recruiter most likely has certain hagwons or schools they recruit for on a daily basis

12. Flights
a. You will generally be expected to find and book your own flight. This varies for those who choose to teach at public schools
b. We used www.kayak.com to book our flights. Kirsty was advised, wisely, by the Korean Consulate in London, not to book flights until her passport had been returned. This meant that her visa was approved and with her passport in her hand she was able to travel
c. We have heard so many horror stories of people booking flights and then not getting their visa in time and having to postpone flights. We booked our flights one night and flew out two days later, and everything was fine
d. Kayak.com seems to be the most competitive for flights. We managed to find flights, one way with Emirates for US$900. They provided great service and for a long haul flight, it was surprisingly comfortable. It looks like the flights are cheaper in September through April or so, by US$100-200

13. Arrival
a. You may be expected to take a bus from the Incheon airport to the closest bus station to your residence. Our director and her family picked us up from there. Depending on your recruitment agency you may be shuttled to a hotel for training with other teachers. We arrived on a Sunday night and were asked to start the following day. Luckily we don’t teach until the afternoon but the first week was very tiring

14. Training
a. We had none. We played games with the students the first couple of days while things were ‘figured out’. Supposedly the previous teachers didn’t leave a documented account as to where they were in the books in their classes or anything else. We had to ask the students were they were in the book. Though some recruiting agencies have a one week training

15. Housing
a. This is usually provided. In our case we even had a bed, sheets, two closets, two small refrigerators (dorm size), two tables, four chairs, a TV, TV stand, two forks, two spoons, two coffee mugs, two plates, an A/C an electric kettle and a toaster included. However, we are not sure if these were left by the previous teachers or if the school provided.
b. Bills – We pay for Internet which very reliable and fast, gas and electricity. It looks like the bills total will not exceed $100
c. Bathroom/Shower - The shower is only a hose connected in the sink area with shower head and there are no shower curtains. Therefore the shower and bathroom are one. However this is not as heinous as you might imagine and can easily be adapted to
d. See Jerry’s blog titled Korean Apartment Video 5, 302 for a look at a one bedroom apartment. While the apartment works after visiting some friends with two bedrooms and a kitchen/dining/living room area I would try for a place similar when being recruited (if you plan on living with someone)

16. Cohabiting
a. Make sure that you spend some time apart or you will kill each other. Make friends quickly, at work and out of work. Though, this may prove to be a little more difficult than you might expect, you will meet people. Chances are if you are sharing an apartment you will be working in the same school also. Hobbies are easy to take up in Korea and many people will want you to tutor them in English, but be warned this is illegal
b. (See Housing d)

17. Teaching
a. We work in a hagwon, an after school private school, from 1:30 PM till 8:00 PM with a half hour break for dinner. However, after just two weeks we were asked to tutor for an hour one on one with a student. We are compensated $20 per session as it is counted as ‘overtime’. We work 33 regular hours a week and anywhere from 2 – 5 hours ‘overtime’
b. The most frustrating thing for us so far is consistently getting new students in classes and having an erratic schedule where we will be teaching a class one week and then not teaching them for 2 weeks and then on again and being told this minutes before or after
c. Parents are very appreciative of teachers and there is always someone dropping off snacks for the staff
d. Students are very disciplined, for the most part, and exerting discipline works. Be mindful though that some of these kids are in school for at 10 hours a day so make English as fun as possible for them and yourself

18. Pay
a. Depends if you are teaching in a hagwon or public school. Some schools start pay at W 2,000,000 a month and increase pay per month if you have a background in education, certificates or diploma. There are also online courses for certification that you may take to get an increase in pay per month. We, with no certificates or online instruction, started at W 2,200,000. Having international experience prior gave us a boost
b. The Korean Won is experiencing a decline against the dollar. As of October we are making about $400 USD less a month than previously projected thanks to the recent economic crisis and other factors. You can monitor the fluxing currency at www.XE.com
c. Severance - Teachers working for 12 months are entitled to severance pay.  Please be aware that some directors for hagwons have been known to fire teachers on their 11th month to avoid paying the severance.  However we have already spoken to our director about this and have a basic understanding that we will get the severance  
d.  Pension - US residents are entitled to a pension plan but I am not sure of the monthly payments of the reimbursement at this time

19. Vacation
a. As hagwon teachers we get 10 days year on top of the 15 national holidays. Public school teachers get more holidays as they have most of January and February off from the school as well as time in the summer but there is so called ‘English camp’ thatthey can teach

20. Training (see Teaching)

21. Phones
a. We were given ours for free and pay for credit as we go along. Though a friend of ours had to wait a couple of weeks before she got hers. Too we suggest you get Skype. The video camera feature is really great and the rates are cheap. For example it is only 2 cents a minute to call a phone in the US from Korea and free if calling another Skype user through Skype

22. Banking
a. We are paid by direct deposit. We have to use ‘bank books’ and go into the bank to do any transactions for the first 3 months before we get a debit card. We also have to show our passports every time we make a transaction
b. You should be able to wire your Korean money to your US accounts. Jerry’s US bank charges $15 per international wire. Check with your Korean bank if they charge per wire

23. What to Bring
a. Korea has four seasons like Europe and America. The guide books say that September is still T-shirt weather, but it really is. In 2008, it only started to get cooler at the end of September. T-shirts, skirts and loose clothes are a good idea. However, Korean winters are rumoured to be cold, with a lot of snow. Koreans have confirmed this is true. This means, if you are here for the year, you need to pack accordingly. But don’t despair ladies, cheap clothing can easily be found in Korea. Seoul has a Zara!!! (Guys, who cares, right?) And there are plenty of cheap stores where you can pick up clothing for under US$40 no problem. Of course there are plenty of expensive stores too, something for every taste and budget. Gents, espesically tall ones, you will be able to find clothes that fit you in any season. There are tall people in Korea, as to oppose popular belief. For big boned people clothing may be hard to come by as most Koreans are slim
b. We have noticed so far, that few, if any places sell deodorant, and we had been warned about this. So for the sake of an easy life, you may want to bring a supply with you, and then request shipments from home. Also on this note, it is difficult to find ordinary black teabags. Brown rice green tea is extremely popular, more so than regular green tea, which is more expensive. Other than that there is a great variety
c. For the ladies, we have not seen tampons in any of the stores yet, so this may pose a problem, and may necessitate some care packages – hey at least they are light and won’t cost much to post.
d. Korea is a relatively respectful country, which means tops that showing cleavage is a huge no no. But it’s perfectly acceptable to show leg, and lots of it. Short skirts are completely fine! Seriously though, we have seen a few foreigners showing cleavage in Seoul and the really do get looked at, and you will not see a Korean woman like this. Plus it looks really trashy! Oh and Koreans think women who dress like that, showing cleavage, are Russian prostitutes! So if you are a teacher and to gain some respect with your students, keep 'em covered! You too, men, no cleavage. Other than that, you can get everything you want here.

24. English Reading Material
a. English books seem to be found easily in Seoul at stores like Bandi and Luni, and Kyobo which is the biggest book store we have ever seen though the English books are a bit more expensive, so you may want to find other teachers to get a book swap going. Same goes for English magazines – very expensive.

25.  Traveling outside of Korea
a.  You will need to make sure to get a E-2 multiple entry visa from the Immigration office on your passport for reentry to Korea.  Your original E-2 visa single entry is only for your intial entrance.  We are told the E-2 multiple entry visa about $50.  

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Korean Apt Video 5,342


Please note that we failed to mention the A/C unit and water heater unit, respectively of course.  

The A/C unit is located in the bed-guest-entertainment-den-study-trophy-room with remote.

The water heater control box is in the same said room.  In order to turn on the hot water you must do so manually by pressing a button.  The same goes for the floor heating located on the 'box'.

Too, Kirsty, the videographer, refers to a mistake she made when talking about the cooking oil.  It is reference to the time that she bought vinegar instead of the intended cooking oil at the local convenient shop.  Far game though as most everything labeled is in Korean in the shops.

Finally, don't hate on Americans because we don't find the need to heat water as often as other parts of the world do.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Watch, then Chew








          The morning after my stomach is unsure of itself.  "What was that!" it gurgled.  Simultaneously my breath said the same thing maybe it was the clove of pickled garlic, I think, that I ate.  It is the morning after a fellow teacher's going away dinner at a sushi restaurant where the tall, moderately inflexible, and novice chop stick fumblers struggle.  Kirsty and I joined our Korean counterparts to a meal where dishes were many and compact much like the housing in the country.  The seemingly endless courses were accompanied with seemingly endless questions of; 

What is that? 

And this is? 

Wow that's hot. 

I dip it in which sauce?  

Its OK to spit it out?

The latter question was in regards to this piece of 'food' that had odd tiny purple cone shaped somethings jetting out in various directions along its periphery.  It was kind of crunchy for a moment and then it was like chewing on a rubbery piece of wood.  I tried to man up but maned down when the look on my face garnered looks of defeat.

So, I now have a rule when eating abroad with country nationals - Wait till something is tried before trying yourself.    

Too, I learned that one is not allowed to pour their own glass of XYZ alcoholic drink and that you are to use two hands.

Another question was, "What do I do when I go to the bathroom?"  My shoes were left at the door as is custom.  "Man, I hope Koreans are not sprayers."  Funny the things you don't consider until you are in the situation.  Luckily the bathroom was quite tidy.  However,  it was only when I was leaving the bathroom that I noticed the complimentary shower shoes.  Which upon a return trip were worn and covered all but a 1/3 of my foot.

No doubt I am still vary gracious for the wildly cultural meal and drink, but my stomach left the restaurant, and continued the morning after, with mixed feelings of fullness and uncertainty.  

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Korea is Cute

This is not Belize. This is not Peace Corps. Korea is nothing I have ever seen before. Everything seems so different. Admittedly after the Peace Corps experience this seems easy. I have never seen so many people in one place, there is a neon light bulb for every person, anything we need seems to be within 5 minutes, walking, but most noticeable and most frustrating is the grocery store. I, Kirsty, we, can't read a lick of Korean and nothing much is in English or any other language. Too is the jet lag. After about a week I think I am nearly over it. The 27 hours of transit did not help. Neither did going to Scotland for 11 days from the U.S, adjusting to the time change there and then heading to Korea for another, radical, time change. For the first three days I could only sleep for three or four hours at a time and my entire body ached.

Though this is different, it does not mean that is bad. This experience is wild.

Kirsty and I live in a small town of Ochang outside of Cheongju which is about 2 and half hours south of Seol, I think. Ochang is, as we are told, a new city. We were also under the impression that it may be a bit rural. It maybe rural, but not to a Westerner's standards. To my western eyes we live in a city. To my small town USA eyes we live in a large metropolis. Huge apartment rises dominate the skyline. However the city planning and zoning was/is impeccable. Everything it seems is a five minute walk. Work, bank, Kirsty's potential dojo sp? - in the same building. Two convenient shops less than a minute. Restaurants, mainly Korean and three pizza joints five minutes or less. Clay tennis courts, a golf range (Asian style), Internet shops, pool halls, etc. etc. - a stone's through. Luckily Kirsty and I do not live in the sci-fi ish apartments, but just on the skirts in a small apartment building on the first floor.

Life, outside of the culture shock and jet lag, for the first week anyway, is easy. The climate has been fare. Absent is the sweating I would do every hour of nearly every day in Belize. There are smooth and wide roads. I have hot water in my apartment though I have to push a button to turn it on. I even have a washing machine!!!

Work is something else. We started the day after arriving! No training. We teach from 2:30 to 8:00 at night to very small class sizes, between 5 -12 students. The Korean teachers are nice people and the director has been very accommodating. Though it has seemed a little disorganized to what we are teaching. I am learning what classes I am teaching on a daily basis and where the class is in the book. The idea of syllabi and planning seems foreign for the first week.

Me - So what do you want me to do today (first day).
Director - Do you know magic?
Me - uhm no.
Director - Hahaha.

So for the first couple of days they just wanted us to introduce ourselves and play games with the kids. My students learned how to play memory, Go Fish, and hang man. They are amazed at my modest shuffling skills. Not one of them can shuffle which is depressing. Even though the kids are respectful, hard working, and cute. Which I have to say kind of sums up this country and experience, from what I know of it - cute.

As everything is new and exciting and wild and cute I still think of Belize every day. I miss it and have the fondess of memories and am very appreciative of my friendships that I have made Belizean, American or otherwise.

Evidence of such can be found in my Wednesday/Friday 2:30 class with five Kindergarteners named Frank, Joe, Micah, Matty, and Mike- all names of friends from my Peace Corps group. Also, you will see Shella and Jenny in my other classes. Giving my students English names may be the funnest part of my job.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Close of Service Survey 2008

Name : Jerry
Aka : White Jerry, Dolce Hombre, Big Time, Mista Jeffery, Sir

Site : Lucky Strike Village (smallest 4H site)

Program /Project : Youth Development, 4-H. Started two youth clubs in the village doing community service, tutoring, and sports. Collaborated with 4H staff and PCVs to create national week long environmental camp on Caye Caulker; Paticipated in national 4-H at 50 events- a couple of leadership workshops, 2 youth presenters at poetry contest, placed 2nd and 3rd in football marathon, and were champions of the national 4-H Olympics. Club earned 1,400 service hours in 20 months

Secondary project(s) : founding Belize Swim Club, reading reinforcement, coaching Bball, Red Cross disaster relief, random stuff in village

Least useful thing brought to country : shortwave radio

Most useful thing brought to country : limited expectations

Something I'd like to forget : getting teefed on every vacation in CA

Something I wish I'd done :

Creatures I've found in my house : something about Mike T's beard, and scorpions and skeeters. And a 4ft frog snake

Belizean phrase I use most often : Alright! or aahumm or hmmpt!

Tropical diseases and ailments : Poison wood rashes, dehydration bouts, minor bladder issue and that's it! Booo yaah!

Favorite Belizean food : Escabache

What is something you will never eat again? : Pig tail

First thing you will eat when stateside : something over priced in a caffeine stricken and panicked airport

First day/night will include.......... : Introducing the Scottish bird to Indiana

Favorite place in Belize : My house

Countries I plan to visit in the next 5 years : Scotland, some of Asia, Middle East

Other countries I've visited while in PC : Guate, Mayheeco, Nica, Onduras

Number of times I returned to the states during PC : 2

What I will miss most in 6 months : bike rides through village and getting a friendly "Mista Jerry!," hails from everyone

What I will NOT miss in 6 months : surveys

Job before PC : Jr. consultant with the World Food Program

My dream post-PC job : Hmmpt I'm torn

Likely post-PC job : teaching English in Korea

State/country I'm moving to after PC : Korea

Most important lesson learned in PC : Baking soda can cure; AIDS, and cancer, if you keep it in your pocket

Things I did to stay sane : Sat/laid in my house and did nothing

Something I still don't understand about PC or Belize : Why some Belizeans don't believe in dinosaurs, "The Great American Joke."

One thing (or more) that you will not be bringing back to the states and why : Children or STIs. Cause I was smart.

Advice to new PCVs : 1) If you would like to gain experience to attempt a certain craft (i.e., teach, gardening, business org) spend at least two or three days in a site with a volunteer who is an expert. Your community should be understanding if you can sell it to them. 2) Sell it, sell it, sell it and follow up. 3) As Greg (PCV) once said, "never pass up a romantic opportunity." Too, fight involuntary celibacy with an open mind, confidence, moderate aggressiveness and be 'fraid not of failure

The moment I felt part of my community : When I toted a wheelbarrow on my bike and I shouted "I'm Belizean, now!," as I made my way through the village past excited and laughing on lookers including Black Jerry who was seductively dousing himself with water from a garden hose.

The thing I did here that I am most proud of : That 4-H enviro. camp on Caye Caulker was pretty cool (twice) / being here closer to 2 years than 2 days

What is something you will always remember about your PCV experience? : My late host mother

Quote that represents you/your philosophy/ or what you think life is all about : Balance is the key to most everything. OR "Mista Jerry, you need to suck your bottom lip, grab a stick, and WHOP these pikni!" – Cameron, 8, during a frustrating morning with our 4-H club while working on our trails

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Keep Riding the Tide

Title from quote by Stanley Lizama of Peace Corps/Belize

Last week Omnibus 2008, my Peace Corps class, gathered for its last time in the sleepy sea side district town of Corozal. At our Close of Service conference, for the volunteers who saw every day of their two years come to an end, but only in ceremony, as we still have at least two months left, we were briefed on; all things needed to be known about reentering the States, hypothesized about what exactly development is, told Peace Corps our two cents, relaxed, partied, said our formal good byes, and decided when we will have to defecate in a cup for Nurse Jackie.

The remaining 25, of the original 40, came from all over the States, from Maine to San Jose, some first generation Americans, green horned college grads mixed with professionals with various levels of experience (all now with a deeper appreciation of Indiana) came to Belize with an array of skill, a bounty of hope for humanity, and a sense of humor. We will leave prideful with much of the same spirit, though challenged on occasion, with stories of breast feeding women on buses, terrorizing village chairmen, maybe a parasite or two, and tails of our first pig tail or toucan delicacy experience. And lets not forget the occasional snake, scorpion, or tarantula who were wrong in thinking of our homes as their dwelling. We also remember our fellow volunteers, our friends, who for various sound reasons are not hear with us to experience our final days as a group in country and we miss them.

I have always been impressed by the skill set that my fellow volunteers exuded during the past two years. I have thoroughly benefited from them as have thousands of Belizeans. They were in education; training teachers, mentoring students, creating/reviving libraries, and were unflustered when 7 year olds contorted their bodies provocatively while dancing during devotion time. They were in environmental education; counting conch, preserving wildlife, revamping visitor’s centers, and handled 8 foot boas. They were in HIV education; passing out over at least 600,000 condoms, showing some teens their first condom, and were a friend to infected persons. They did community development; and are responsible for the first ever realization of lap tops, websites, and a community telephone in remote villages. They built a radio station, and are leaving businesses self sufficient with Maya women using the Internet. Finally, in youth development we impacted the lives (or at least we hope) of some 2, 600 youth, encouraged alternative ways of release, created youth clubs starting with zero dollars, coached them through a 179 mile cross country canoe race, and spent many days at camps (kyamps).

Even though we were; robbed at times, suffered through ‘involuntary celibacy’, shivered with malaria, were lost at night on volcanoes, and missed home, we powered through to see our projects develop with roller coaster amounts of success. Certainly we will leave at some point, but not after making a multitude of friends, once strangers that now call us son or daughter or good friend (balli), and finally, but certainly not least, we now know how to Punta.

And there were those hurricanes...

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Surprises at a Village Surprise Party – A Conversation

Recently at a surprise party in Lucky Strike I sat next to Dan (fictional name) as we awaited the birthday boy, or man rather, underneath Almonds (‘Hallmonds’) trees in the pitch dark. First of all, I had no idea a surprise party was even attemptable in a village that, as Doc Hollywood would say, “Knows the color of your shit before you leave the woods.” Dan by this time at night, or possibly even by 9 A.M, was far wasted and thirsting for conversation. The proceeding randomness is as follows:

DAN: White Jerry!
WHITE JERRY: Good night Dan.
D: Hey what do you call a, what you call, well she is not lesbian.
D: Ahhhhhh, she is not lesbian but ehmmmmmmmm
D: She she she got, she got ehmmm balls, a cock, and ahh you know, a hole.
WJ: Hermaphrodite?
D: Yeah, that’s it. I try to tell these young guys in the village. They don’t believe me.
WJ: Well they should. They certainly exist.
D: I’ve done four, ehhm five of them.
WJ: (flabbergasted) Jesus, really…?
D: Yyyyyyeah.
D: Why is Jesus white?
WJ: I don’t think he is. He is probably a light brown skin since he came from the Middle East.
D: Jerry, you are white but we are brothers.
WJ: Sure.
D: We all come from Adam and Eve. What do you think about Adam and Eve, Jerry?
WJ: That it is a made up story.
D: Jerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry?!!!!
WJ: What.
D: Jerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry!!!
WJ: Ha, what.
D: Come on Jerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!

ALL: SURPRISE!!!!!!

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Youth Need Not Apply

As appeared in the Marian Magnet.

Lucky Strike, Belize - “Plantain chips, mango sweet, tambran sweet, Coke, Winterfresh!,” yells Daniel, 8, at the Belmopan bus terminal. Your eight year old is in second period Math while Daniel is earning a dollar an hour, maybe. Before the terminal he rose pre-dawn, had a bucket bath with cold water, outside, from a well, fed the chickens, ate breakfast that consisted of beans and tortilla, and caught the first bus to Belmopan, the capital of Belize (pop. 10,000), from his village with his father and their stock of snacks. After the terminal he will go home where his bed maybe a hammock along side 6 others.

This is unfortunately the reality of some children in Belize though, certainly not all. According to a report in 2001 the US Labor Department estimated that just over 6 % of children 5 – 14 were working at the time. It is legal for a 12 year old to do light work in Belize. I would be shocked if this number improved over the years as the country’s GDP growth, currently 3.5 similar to the U.S, has not seen much flux since 2003. The realities of other children are much worse. Other children maybe found begging for a quarter, “shilling”, in Belize City, chopping cane in the sugar fields in the North, hauling oranges in the South, or God forbid, skipping school to sell their young body to an adult male tourist in exchange for school fees, cash, or material items. A horrific scene when you consider 2.8% of the population, of epidemic proportions, is only reported to be living with HIV/AIDS and when the tourism sector employs 25% of the country.
Given the hells that are among us we must ask, “Is all child labor bad?” No. My friend Rahiem, 14, along side his older brother, can be found selling everything from mosquito repellent to bread, at the family’s convenient shop, The Black Orchid. As a store clerk he is immersed in socialization, math, business, and hospitality- skills that will only help him in adulthood and transition into the work force. Rahiem is one of the brightest in his class and the president of my 4-H club in Lucky Strike, the village where I live and work.

Unfortunately, outside of the home there are not many opportunities for youth. Many youth assist the family in some form of chores whether it being on the farm, sanding wood carvings, or selling baked goods door to door. Sport’s seasons for rural youth maybe a single game elimination tournament, if that. As a volunteer Youth Development with 4-H/ Belize’s revamped Outreach program I am proud of the difference we are striving to make. From chess clubs to health workshops; community service activities to environmental summer camps; and from pig rearing to competing in 170 mile canoe races, we are developing an atmosphere of positive productivity and fun along side our much needed Belizean adult leaders.
Being a Peace Corps volunteer immerses you into living amongst these realities – this roller coaster of experiences.

Recently I was heading South for a football (soccer) match and the bus I’m on arrives in Belmopan and I’m faced with a moral dilemma. If I buy a bag of plantain chips am I a supporter of a child trying to make some money for his family or am I supporting the exploitation of the child who should be in second period Math?

* The article presented does not necessarily express the views of the United States Peace Corps or the Peace Corps post of Belize, but that of its author.